Hidden Gems

Here’s another submission to AJF’s season of Blame It On the Bling, our search for good diamonds, in which AJF member Valeria Vallarta Siemelink proves once again that it’s what’s on the inside that really counts.

Philippa Green, Engagement ring

My engagement ring. Eight rough diamonds (one green, one brown, one green . . .), representing the eight months of written exchange that I had with my (now) husband before we met face to face, are embedded in clear resin. The diamonds are, naturally, fair trade. The ring was designed by South African jeweler Philippa Green.

The ring is one of my dearest friends. I wouldn’t blush to wear it at an AJF event or anywhere else. I wouldn’t worry either about wearing it on the Mexico City metro system. For potential thieves, it only looks like a plastic ring with little ‘ugly’ rocks inside.

Small But Perfectly Formed

Our season of Blame It On The Bling continues here at AJF with a new show at AJF member Gallery Lulo in Healdsburg, California. Jeweler Elisa Bongfelt tells us why size matters in her work, and why the small and perfect brings a sparkle to her eye.

Elisa Bongfelt, Petals necklace, 2010, oxidised sterling silver, white diamonds, 17 inches long

I recently began using diamonds as a way to add the undeniable sparkle they possess to my work. Because diamonds are so eye catching, I think one of the biggest challenges in contemporary jewelry is to allow the work to be the focus, not the stone in it.

Elisa Bongfelt, Petals choker, 2010, oxidised sterling silver, white diamonds, 17 inches long

The contrast between oxidized silver and the diamonds is quite dramatic, and yet the forms of the pieces are not overshadowed by the stones. In this particular body of work, I have chosen to use diamonds that are quite small, so they are a subtle addition to the pieces; they draw you in to look closer.

Elisa Bongfelt, Stacked bracelet, 2010, oxidized sterling silver, white diamonds, 8 inches long

The Shock of the Old

Robert Smit, Sleeping Beauty, c.1990, gold, from the Marjan and Gerald Unger collection

One of the big news stories from across the Atlantic has been the significant donation of almost 500 pieces of jewelry from the Marjan and Gerald Unger collection to the Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam. Marjan Unger, a leading authority on Dutch jewelry, has among other things published a book called Het Nederlandse Sieraad in de 20ste eeuw (Dutch jewellery in the 20th century), which unfortunately is not yet available in an English translation. One of the notable things about the Marjan and Gerald Unger collection is its obvious agenda in relation to Dutch jewelry history, what the Rijksmuseum press release somewhat cryptically describes as an ‘academic approach’. AJF was keen to find out how Unger’s collecting activities were affected by her scholarly interests, so we asked her to summarize how she approached Dutch jewelry in her book.

Van den Eersten en Hofmeijer, Pendant, 1920s, gold, amber, from the Marjan and Gerald Unger collection

One of my problems is the term ‘contemporary jewelry’. Every piece of jewelry is contemporary if you place it in the light of its time. In the Netherlands we use the term modern jewelry a lot – same point to make.

One of the reasons I wrote my book is that is was a standard notion amongst ‘our kind of people’ that before the late sixties no jewelry worth any attention at all was produced in the Netherlands, and that those modern jewelers emerged very unexpectedly from nowhere at all. The fact is that information of the work of the jewelers before then was so repressed that it seemed to belong to the stone age – a pun of mine in several respects.

Chris Steenbergen, Rope Skipper, 1954, silver, gold, from the Marjan and Gerald Unger collection

So I started digging and unearthing makers and their work. I was so happy with everything interesting I found from the first six decades of the twentieth century, that I used it all. I needed it to create a timeframe and set out cultural developments, which are sometimes very specific to the Netherlands, certainly where jewelry is concerned.

One of my main targets was to define a certain Dutch mentality towards adorning the body, with jewelry and clothes, and to analyze social structures and behavior that is typical for the Low Countries. A backbone of my research was a professional magazine that appeared in 1875 and has continued to be published until now. In fact, I created a multi-disciplinary approach, including social, economic and political developments, and I relied a lot on the history and the theory of fashion.

Joseph Citroen, Brooch, c.1963, gold, pearls, from the Marjan and Gerald Unger collection

In such an approach, all kinds of jewelry play their part. I’m talking about real jewels – that means lots of diamonds and pearls in the Netherlands, as well as popular jewelry, folk dress, fashion related jewelry, and the work from independent gold-and silversmiths and jewelry makers.

When I reached the late sixties and seventies, I did not change this approach. I talked about the ‘modern jewelry’ but I kept looking at the other kinds of jewelry too, the work of the traditional jewelers, etc. And one of the things I found out is that the group of designers that we like to call avant-garde are more often than not a few years behind the cultural developments that they claim to be part of.

Paul Derrez, Pills, c.1997, synthetic, metal, from the Marjan and Gerald Unger collection

Most of the well-known jewelers from the gallery-circuit were not so happy with this, but they have mostly looked if they were in my book and how often they were mentioned. I got a lot of good comments from historians and people who are interested in jewelry from many different perspectives. They could find a lot that was not described before the publication of my research.

Quartz

Quartz is known as `sphatik` in Sanskrit and `billor` in Persian. It is one of the most commonplace minerals in the earth`s crust. It is available in the shape of pencils, big and tiny pieces. Quartz is coloured like snow. It is transparent, emanating splendour, refinement and smoothness. Its nature is cold. It is used for making idols, yantras and numerous other items. Though the color of quartz is as variable as the visible range of spectrum, the clear form is the most common. There are other colors as well which include- white or cloudy named as milky quartz, purple commonly known as amethyst, pink that is also known as Rose quartz and gray or brown or black known as Smoky Quartz as well.

Quartz is one of the most common minerals on earth. It has many natural varieties, plus synthetic quartz that comes in every color of the rainbow. Quartz, the most common mineral found on the earth`s surface is a component of almost all the types of rock. Quartz has a wide variety with respect to variety, color and forms. Each quartz can be separated from the other in terms of color; shade and also structure which includes pyramidal, prismatic, sceptered, phantomed, coating, tapering, stalactitic, concretionary, geoidal and banded. All these multiple combinations can lead to hundreds of unique possibilities. According to astrology it is related to Venus. Quartz is an alternate for diamond. It possesses the same qualities of a diamond, but is priced much less. Therefore it can easily be worn without reluctance.

In present days, rock crystal has become extremely important because of its piezoelectric attribute. When crystal quartz is cut in an exact angle to its axis and subjected to mechanical pressure, it emits minute electrical charges at the end of the axes and the crystal expands and contracts, which sets it into constant mechanical vibration. This steady rate of vibration makes quartz functional for radio and television transmission, telephone and cable equipments, radar, depth-sounding, apparatus, anti-submarine devices, clocks, resonators, range making lenses, prisms, and optical instruments.

Quartz gems are popular among gem therapists; because they produce electrochemical balance in the body chemistry of the wearer, eradicate nervousness, and makes one composed and concentrating. Using a rosary made from rock crystal helps in concentration, cools the body, and composes the mind. It is helpful for deriving knowledge of the past, present and future when used for concentration. Wearing a crystal mala ensures a healthy and undisturbed sleep. In Hinduism crystal holds a substantial position. It is also believed that Lord Shiva and Goddess Parvati (Shakti) live in this stone. Therefore statues are built after cutting and chiseling the crystal, because there is no need to vivify its statues and it is fittingly worthy to be worshipped. It can also be noted that idols made of other stones are forbidden to be kept in a temple or at home. Without life induction, the idols made of other stones are not used for religious rites and prayers. Therefore crystal has the nobility to be worshipped. And that is why Shiva linga, idols and Shree Yantra etc., are manufactured from it, so that this may be worshipped without life induction. Crystal garlands (mala) are used to count mantras while worshipping Laxmi, Durga, Saraswati and other Goddesses. Tripursundari`s yantra (Shree Yantra), engraved on sphatik (quartz) is regarded the best of all. Opulence and salvation are two dissimilar aims in human life and through crystal "Shree Yantra", people who meditate and worship achieve both these aims by themselves involuntarily.

Crystal bead is used for concentration (Tratak) and other devotional activities. A person who meditates by focusing his mind on a crystal bead is aware of all the future incidents in advance logically. Therefore, crystal is itself a priceless and godly element. This stone will not allow someone to wallow in self-pity over that which can not change. It amplifies the energy of all other stones and increases the emotional energy. Quartz is so rich in every way except material value. It amplifies, focuses, stores, transforms, and also energizes. This stone is perfect for focusing affirmations and prayers. It also stimulates psychic perception. It teaches each person at his or her own level, and at his or her own speed. It empowers and attunes to all chakras, all signs, and all numbers as well. This stone amplifies prayers, wishes and positive visualizations in a great manner. It keeps someone in touch with the spiritual side, and reminds that he or she is a spiritual being, having a human experience. All spiritual pursuits can be stimulated and amplified using this stone`s energy. It helps to be receptive to higher guidance. This gemstone is easy to cleanse, store information or energy in, program or amplify energy and heal with. It can both draw and send energy. This is the powerful clear ones that open Crown Chakra. This is good for meditation as well as sending or receiving guidance. It often stimulates natural crystals in body tissues and fluids to resonate at new healing frequency. It works with all chakras and master gland. Blue quartz crystals grant spiritual insight and enlightenment, peace and serenity. They also encourage emotional clarity and purity of heart.